As the Resort shows wrap up and the industry moves forward to focus on the Menswear Spring 2012 season, I am focused on analyzing what just transpired during the collections. I have always advocated pre-collection trends being good indicators of what is to come on the major seasonal runways, and I found 5 leading trends that are building toward a Spring that is sure to be full of ease, bright colors, and refreshing silhouettes.
Scuba as an Inspiration
No doubt one of the leading resort trends this past month was the emergence of scuba inspired clothing. We saw big variations in each designer’s approach. Michael Kors went literal using neons and neoprene (which The Sche Report predicted months ago when I reported on Opening Ceremony’s special Tron collection). While other designers such as Rachel Roy, Costume National, and Donna Karan, singled out scuba uniform elements such as silhouettes, texture, and oversized zippers, and applied them in unexpected manners. Moving into Spring, designers will focus on capturing the essence of scuba in more wearable manners and give us a sporty Spring season.
Prints are a Spring season stable. Despite the general mood, there are always prints abundant on the runway. Resort has offered us a chic rendition of the slightly infamous tropical print. I first saw a glimpse at Givenchy‘s Fall runway collection, and it looked like Ricardo Tisci was one step ahead as many other designers presented their interpretation of a tropical paradise for Resort. Celine, Stella McCartney, Suno, and Marc Jacobs are all leaning toward a Polynesian holiday. Expect to see this print continue to evolve for Spring and most likely reflect a blooming season for big and bold florals.
As far as silhouettes, I continue to see designers leaning toward asymmetrical construction, focusing on necklines and draping. Asymmetry has been a strong trend for the past few seasons mainly due to the drama and interesting silhouette it creates. Much attention had been focused on the hemline in the past, but as Resort is indicating, the neckline is being explored, and side sweep draping is coming on strong also. This trend is sure to bring about lots of interesting LBD and LWD options for next Spring.
The sporty and relaxed vibe of Resort led to a good number of designers presenting comfortable Bermuda shorts done in a chic manner. This style hits the thigh at just the right length and there are a multitude of fabrics and silhouettes to choose from. Chanel has a flowy and romantic version,DVF is offering a slick black cotton pair, Louis Vuitton decides to cut a pair in blue lace, and Alexander Wang gave us a sporty leather option. Expect to see more options shown during the Spring presentations as the Bermuda short becomes a Spring must-have.
A more subtle and innovative trend is emerging from all the resort collections – print blocking. Similar to color-blocking (which has been dominating fashion for a while now), I saw innovative prints done by Nicolas Ghesquiere over at Balenciaga, which saw him merging a brick road print (taken from the house’s archives from the 60s) over a herringbone print to create something interesting. Overall, designers are blocking and layering prints over each other in solid colors to create a much similar graphic effect to color-blocking. As I have mentioned, prints are usually a Springtime staple and it is great to see this technique continue to evolve bringing innovation for the future.
The Sche Report wants to know if you have been keeping up with the Resort shows…Tell us in the comment below which trend you are excited to see for Spring!
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