Well, if you didn’t know it yet…the 90′s are back and we saw the biggest showing yet for the Fall 2011 season. Lucky for us, designers only took small tid bits from the decade’s fashion references. One of the biggest 90′s themes was a take on GRUNGE that Marc Jacobs was infamous for at the start of his career.
This time around its a bit different and has been elevated to a LUXE GRUNGE feel with dressier fabrications and elements to make it modern.
There are many styling and design elements to take note of in regard to this trend:
- PLAID had a huge showing on the runways and came in all types from traditional plaids to Scottish interpretations, Glenn plaids, tartans and more. Designers such as Rag and Bone, Sonia Rykiel and Libertine used tartan plaids in dresses, skirts and capes for a traditional take on the pattern. Missoni’s collection was directly inspired by grunge and featured lots of long layers with bold pastel plaids shown in long coats and full trousers. Band of Outsiders featured traditional plaid wovens under huge knit sweaters and fur hats for his version of California Preppy ala Ally Sheedy in The Breakfast Club. Look for everything this Fall from plaid shirts and coats to simple shift dresses and full trousers. PLAID is back, although it never actually disappeared, but this time its come back with a vengeance.
- LONG LAYERS are another part of this trend. With designers such as Haider Ackermann and Rick Owens on board, looks were layered with several combinations of sweaters jackets and long skirts all showing different lengths for interest. One of the biggest interpretations was seen in long flowy skirts layered with oversized chunky sweaters for a LUXE GRUNGE combination. When styling, keep the combination equal parts tough and feminine for the right appeal using more masculine accessories to top it off.
- CASUAL PARKAS were seen layered over soft dresses from Altuzarra and Alexander Wang for a modern take on grunge while still keeping the 90′s in tact. Again, the key to styling LUXE GRUNGE is juxtapositioning soft and luxurious fabrics with tougher casual elements. Combining parkas with soft and fluid dresses and maxi skirts is a big interpretation of this.
- SLIP DRESSES were a big part of the 90′s ala Courtney Love with underwear as outerwear her main contribution to the decade’s fashion. Yohji Yamamoto, Narcisso Rodriguez and BCBG Max Azria all three showed various versions of this trend. Yohji paired slipdresses with tougher accessories in midi-lengths while BCBG went for a softer approach layering turtlenecks underneath for a modest approach. Narcisso sent out a plethera of this simple idea in a beautiful palette for his sexy take on 90′s minimalism. Expect to see many getting on board this idea from Junior retailers to everyone in between as this dress will be a key item for the Fall season. Layer with oversized chunky sweaters and coats to stay on board this LUXE GRUNGE trend.
- A MUTED PALETTE of grey, burgundy, navy and black is key to this trend with red as a modern accent.
- TOUGH JACKETS & FULL TROUSERS were seen in a lot of variations but Chanel did LUXE GRUNGE at its finest with destructed tweed suits paired with chunky motorcycle boots. His post-apocalyptic theme turned Grunge modern with moth eaten and tattered tweeds, layered jackets and shredded chiffon. Chanel’s runway will be translated in the idea of taking dressier fabrications and silhouettes (tweed, chiffon and dinner jackets) and making them worn and tattered. As Karl’s approach to his collection gets younger and younger, expect Junior retailers to fawn over this idea come Fall and into next year. This idea will also been seen translated in interiors well into next year with art and accessories getting inspiration from the aged and the old and paired with a feminine environment.
- MIXED MOTIFS were also a big part of this trend with Dries Van Noten, Etro and Antonio Marras leading the way. They featured combinations of paisleys and florals with luxe trims and embellishments all in a muted palette of burgundy, navy and brown. Mixed patterns are something we have been seeing for awhile, however this time the mixture feels a bit more happenstance channeling the grunge era.
- FUR/SKINS/FEATHERS/EMBELLISHMENT are they key to the LUXE GRUNGE idea. Roberto Cavalli gave his gypsy bohemians a grungier feel this time and sent out long and layered looks encompassing all the correct elements of this trend. Looks were layered up with mixed fur and feather details, gold embellishments and exotic skins. All layered over burn-out velvets, paisleys, florals and chiffon for the best take of LUXE GRUNGE seen on the runway.