Aspire To Inspire

PARIS FALL 2011: TOP 5 PICKS

After a month of non-stop fashion, the Fall season has finally come to a close.  Paris definitely brought us some new ideas; some to love and some to seriously question.  The Paris season swirled in controversy with the Galliano firing and Christopher Decarin’s strange absence from the runway all becoming a part of the drama that is Paris fashion.  What will become of the House of Galliano and will Balmain continue to soar to the top of the Paris Bobo (Bohemian Bourgeois) scene with a mentally unstable designer?

In general, Paris seemed to be in a darker mood for Fall 2011.  Gone is the happy happy of Spring, and for Fall lies layers of Gothic references,Fetishistic silhouettes and demure buttoned-up dressing.  I can’t help but wonder how these ideas will translate to the market as many are un-wearable or entirely too conservative for the modern women to grasp onto.

Despite of some wild cards, there were some beautiful and profound collections presented.  Celine continued to show us how every woman wants to dress in Paris with tailored coats and streamlined silhouettes that continue to get better each season.  Miu Miu took a different angle this season and presented 1940′s ladylike silhouettes with a modern twist with beautiful vintage florals and a fresh color palette.  Ann  Demeulemeester wowed us with multi-colored monkey fur and laced leather in a spectacular typically gothic viewpoint from this very talented designer.  And despite the controversy, Galliano sent out a lively romantic romp at Christian Dior that was extremely wearable and fresh.

Here is the list of our Top 5 collections from the Paris Fall 2011 season.

1.  ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

115 PARIS FALL 2011: TOP 5 PICKS   The Sche Report / Margaret Sche

Alexander McQueen Fall 2011 looks

212 PARIS FALL 2011: TOP 5 PICKS   The Sche Report / Margaret Sche

Alexander McQueen Fall 2011 looks

It’s a shame that Kate Middleton did not order her wedding gown from Ms. Burton herself, because from what we saw, it would’ve made one hell of a fairytale moment. Sarah Burton told the horde of journalists at her show that her inspiration this season was the romantically powerful yet austere “ice queen”. For the most part, that motif was best carried out by her use of rabbit and fox fur trims on skirts, collars, and shoulders which extended to an overall beautifully made collection. Not only are the silhouettes perfectly hourglass-ed and sculpted, most of the fabrics are handmade from organza weaved tweed with broken glass-esque collages on some of the finale looks. On the show-notes the designer reminded the audience that this collection sticks to heritage silhouettes, meaning Alexander Lee McQueen’s DNA is alive. However,  don’t forget that Sarah is also part of that DNA, and this collection will help to ease the comparison and allow viewers to savor future McQueen collections as what it is rather than what it would’ve been.

View the entire collection here.

2.  HAIDER ACKERMANN

18 PARIS FALL 2011: TOP 5 PICKS   The Sche Report / Margaret Sche

Haider Ackermann Fall 2011 looks

26 PARIS FALL 2011: TOP 5 PICKS   The Sche Report / Margaret Sche

Haider Ackermann Fall 2011 looks

Haider Ackermann arguably presented the best and most beautiful collection of the season. After last season’s dramatic eveningwear with long trains and miles of lush silk fabric, this season saw the designer scaling back and embracing looks that are equally dramatic but more sensible in its silhouettes. What is still the same is his signature dramatic collars and loosely tied obi-belt with elaborate constructed leather jackets or strictly tailored silk blazers. The collection, though made of many loose pieces being tied together, never lost its balance. For every loose fluid piece there is always a strictly structured counterpart, and the best is demonstrated by the tailored silk blazer worn with soft silk dresses. This collection also demonstrated the designer’s consumer mindset in which each piece when dissembled can surely be a best-seller at the most prestigious retail locations serving a multitude of tastes. Combined with his design sensibility and skills, no wonder everyone sees/wants him at Givenchy once the position finally vacates when Tisci makes his move over to Dior.

View the entire collection here.

3.  YVES ST LAURENT

19 PARIS FALL 2011: TOP 5 PICKS   The Sche Report / Margaret Sche

YSL Fall 2011 looks

27 PARIS FALL 2011: TOP 5 PICKS   The Sche Report / Margaret Sche

YSL Fall 2011 looks

The latest Stefano Pilati collection reminds us of why speculations are useless and real clothes are what drives the fashion industry forward. It was a superbly beautiful and chic outing that very well continues what Stefano achieved with YSL last season. It was sleek, modern, but referential. He claimed to have flipped through more than a decade’s worth of archival images from the early 60′s to late 70′s and the silhouettes and aesthetic surely reflected that, but not without a modern Pilati spin. Much like the Fall Ferragamo collection, it was a strict use of grey, white, and black paired with alluring and sexy menswear materials such as Prince of Wales check and Houndstooth that created the sexiest clothes. This resulted in a lean, alluring, and refined modern woman continuing the YSL legacy, which is currently being displayed in Paris at The Foudation Pierre Berge – Saint Laurent.

View the entire collection here.

4.  DRIES VAN NOTEN

111 PARIS FALL 2011: TOP 5 PICKS   The Sche Report / Margaret Sche

Dries Van Noten Fall 2011 looks

29 PARIS FALL 2011: TOP 5 PICKS   The Sche Report / Margaret Sche

Dries Van Noten Fall 2011 looks

Dries van Noten continues to show us the mastery he has over fashion with his Fall 2011 collection. Sticking to his signature use of prints, textures, and simple silhouettes, he produces yet another collection of engaging clothes that more often have the ability to transport its viewer into a different level. He cited David Bowie and the Ballet Russe as influences for this season but in true Van Noten fashion, these references were thought out and distilled into masterful prints skillfully mixed in a balanced manner. Much different than other designers of his stature, his collections are often ready to be shopped right off the runway. Kudos to a designer that does not need exaggerated silhouettes or theatrical treatments to state his point of view. This is why we love Dries season after season, and why his customers are so devoted.

View the entire collection here.

5.  RICK OWENS

110 PARIS FALL 2011: TOP 5 PICKS   The Sche Report / Margaret Sche

Rick Owens Fall 2011 looks

28 PARIS FALL 2011: TOP 5 PICKS   The Sche Report / Margaret Sche

Rick Owens Fall 2011 looks

Rick Owens once wanted to emulate the career of the late American couturier Charles James, and his latest collection finds me a little bit closer to his Hollywood home. It was a seemingly pared down but skillfully tailored and aesthetically pleasing Rick Owens collection. The usual avant-garde hard edge was shaved away and gave way to a sleeker slimmer silhouettes. Obviously the signature long lean skirts are still a staple, but paired with it now are cocoon shaped capes lined with mink or gloves up to the elbow a la old Hollywood sirens. There is a sense of nun-like austerity and there is a slight religious undertone, most obviously demonstrated by shoulders shaped like the flap of angel’s wings. Maybe it is God’ divine calling for Owens to open up his aesthetic to a wider audience and at the same time demonstrate his superb skills as a designer and artist. I feel sure we will see the amazing leather jackets everywhere this Fall.

View the entire collection here.

1,945 Comments

  1. katie

    Amazing!
    Loving the soft drapey silks and the amazing indigo/blue tones of the Ackermann pieces!

  2. The Beautiful Silouettes

    [...] PARIS FALL 2011: TOP 5 PICKS « The Sche Report Miu Miu took a different angle this season and presented 1940′s ladylike silhouettes with a modern twist with beautiful vintage florals and a fresh color palette. Ann Demeulemeester wowed us with multi-colored monkey fur and laced . [...]

Copyright © 2013 Margaret Sche / The Sche Report
All Rights Reserved.

Site by More & Co.