As we follow the fashion circus to Milan, an interesting piece of Milanese fashion news was brought to our attention: Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana are planning to convert their D&G store in Milan’s Via della into Spiga 2, a new store concept where pieces from emerging designers handpicked by them will be sold. Opening this weekend on the cusp of Milan fashion week, the store will carry such designers as Behnaz Sarafpour, Sophie Theallet, Yigal Azrouel, Fanni Schiavoni, Erkan Coruh, Peter Jensen, and Heather Williams. The primary purpose of the store is to introduce new designers to the Milan public in order to inject a breath of fresh air into the Milan fashion industry. The designers carried in the store will constantly rotate keeping the idea of fresh talent alive and thriving in the city.
The decision and reasoning to open such a specialty shop echoes one of our concerns as we go through our preparation for Milan Fashion Week: the lack of fresh talent.
Although the city is hailed as Europe’s luxury capital with brands such as Armani, Versace, Gucci…etc, the system in place is not friendly toward the growth of young brands. As we seek out fresh talent globally with a good combination of vision, aesthetics, and marketability, we find it hard to pinpoint such standouts among the Italian batch of designers.
Obviously Milan has provided exquisite collections and has dominated some of Fall’s biggest trends: Armani’s strong and tailored suits, Dolce and Gabbana’s sexy polka dot blouses and Prada and Marni’s industry leading nod to retro silhouettes and color direction. For that exact reason, buyers and editors arrive in Milan looking to spend major dollars on marketable and relatable clothing and then head towards Paris for innovation and directional fashion. New designers undoubtedly struggle against the lineage, money, and publicity generated by their established Milanese counterparts, and the fashion circus will not pay attention to you unless you make yourself noticed.
There’s absolutely no doubt that talented young designers exists in Milan. It is a matter of allowing room for them to develop their own aesthetic outside of the major houses’ shadow, and allowing a space, such as the one set up by D&G, for the designers to showcase their staying power. But while that movement takes shape, there are plenty of highly anticipated shows coming up in the next few days in Milan, and The Sche Report is keeping a close eye on the following designers anticipating beautiful, exquisite, trend-setting style.
Setting trends is what Miuccia Prada does season after season. From her forward thinking intellectual approach to design to her knack for accessories, we always get something new and directional from this Italian Fashion legend. Looking forward to seeing which direction she takes for Spring/Summer 2011.
2. EMILIO PUCCI
Since 2008, Peter Dundas has been adding a new life to the legend that is Pucci. He has re-vived the brand name with a dose of sex appeal and modern girl edge that garners quite a following from the younger influencial fashion set. Look for the mainstay of Pucci prints combined with details and trims that take this archival brand into our Fashion future.
3. CHRISTOPHER KANE FOR VERSUS
Spring/Summer 2011 will mark Christopher Kane’s 3rd season as the head designer for Versace’s Junior line, Versus. Citing Christopher as a younger Gianni Versace, Donatella shares a unique bond with this young and fresh talent. For Fall, Versus served up an amazing mix of pleated 80′s influenced bondage dresses that got a lot of press during the show season. His reinterpretation of this younger Versace woman is right on the money and is sure to gain more attention as he continues to push the envelope and delve into the younger roots of the Versace archives.
Consuelo Castiglioni’s studied eccentricity in her collections are always trendsetting and she always caters to the artsy individuals of the Fashion bunch. Known for her exceptional mix of colors, Consuelo always leads the pack for the next season’s color trends. Marni is only for the true masters of styling, ones who take risks and like to do things their own way. The Sche Report can’t wait to see what she does for Spring/Summer 2011.
Founded by Franco Moschino in 1983, the Moschino label is known for its irreverent, surreal take on fashion. Through the years, the collections have often included tongue-in-cheek items like a cashmere jacket reading “rich bitch” or a T-shirt sporting a television tuned to “Channel No. 5” (for which Chanel sued). Rossella Jardini has served as the label’s creative director since Moschino’s death in 1994, turning out playful, wearable collections. Her Fall collection was a standout for being directional and setting its own trends for the season with black fringe, cowboy hats and over the top 80′s glamour. Curious to see what she does for Spring and hoping this new trend direction continues.
Stay tuned to The Sche Report for all Spring/Summer 2011 trends..